What's inside
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A wall rack keeps router jigs and table saw accessories visible without leaving them on the saw, where they collect dust or get buried under stock. The useful version is not a row of random hooks: it has dedicated supports for each item, enough clearance to lift things off, and fasteners that hold securely in your wall.
Plan the layout around the accessories
Start by measuring the items you actually own: router plates, circle-cutting jigs, featherboards, push sticks, miter gauges, throat plates, and wrenches. Group them by how they’re handled. Flat jigs can hang vertically; heavy or awkward accessories need a shelf or two-point support; small parts belong in a bin or on a short rail.
Allow at least 1 inch between neighboring items so you can remove one without catching the next. Check the full swing and lift path of a miter gauge or long jig before fixing the rack in place. Keep the rack close enough to the saw and router table to be useful, but outside the path of long stock and moving machinery. Do not store accessories where they can block an electrical disconnect, extinguisher, or walkway.
Choose a rack style
A plywood backer with cleats, pegs, and small shelves is easy to customize. A French cleat makes later changes straightforward, but it needs a straight, level wall cleat and a secure attachment to studs. A perforated panel offers more rearrangement, though the hooks can be less stable under heavy or unusual shapes.
| Rack style | Best for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Plywood backer with fixed supports | A small, known set of accessories | Simple and sturdy, but changes require new holes |
| French cleat backer | Accessories that change over time | Adjustable, but takes more careful layout and wall fastening |
| Pegboard or perforated panel | Light accessories and small tools | Quick to rearrange; generic hooks may wobble or not fit bulky jigs |
For a first rack, 3/4-inch plywood is a practical backer. A 24-by-36-inch panel is enough for many home shops, but size it to the wall and inventory rather than forcing everything into that footprint. A 3/4-inch plywood panel is more reliable for screw-holding than thin hardboard. Scrap plywood is fine if it is flat, sound, and not delaminating.
Materials and supports
Use two cleats or a French cleat to carry the backer’s load. For hanging items, hardwood dowels or screw-in tool hooks work for simple holes and handles. Make custom supports from plywood scraps for irregular shapes such as a router circle jig or throat plates. A shallow shelf with a front lip is better than a single hook for loose plates that could slide off.
Choose supports that contact sturdy parts of each accessory, not a thin edge that can crack. For a router plate, support it at two points and keep the cutting opening clear. For a miter gauge, a pair of hooks or a shaped cradle prevents it from pivoting off a single peg. A 3/8-inch hardwood dowel works for many lightweight jigs; use thicker supports or a shelf for heavier pieces.
Use screws long enough to pass through the backer and cleat and still get at least 1 1/2 inches of bite into a wall stud. If mounting to masonry, use anchors rated for the load and substrate. Drywall anchors alone are a poor choice for a rack that may carry several pounds of metal accessories and get tugged repeatedly.
Build and install the rack
Cut the backer to size, sand the edges, and mark the studs on the wall. If using a French cleat, rip a straight strip of 3/4-inch plywood at 45 degrees. Screw one half level into at least two studs, with the bevel facing up and out; attach its matching half to the back of the panel with the bevel facing down and in. A straightedge and level matter here: a twisted cleat can make the panel rock or leave it hanging at an angle.
Lay out the accessories on the backer before adding supports. Trace each item lightly, then mark screw positions and confirm that nothing overlaps. Predrill holes for dowels and screws to reduce splitting. For a simple peg support, drill a clean hole slightly smaller than the dowel and glue it in; test the fit with the accessory before making a row of identical holes. If the item has no convenient hanging point, make a small cradle from two blocks rather than relying on friction alone.
Fasten the backer, then load it gradually, starting with the heaviest accessories nearest the cleat or main support points. Pull gently on each item to check that it cannot slip free. If the panel bows, the cleat shifts, or a support loosens, unload it and fix the problem before use. A stud finder can help locate framing, but confirm the locations by checking spacing or making a small pilot hole; electronic readings can be thrown off by wiring, pipes, or layered wall materials.
Safety and maintenance
Keep sharp edges, blades, and exposed cutters covered or positioned so hands do not brush them when reaching for another tool. Store router bits in a closed case rather than loose on an open shelf. Put heavier items at a comfortable lifting height, not overhead, and keep small hardware in a lidded container so vibration cannot send it onto the floor.
Check the rack after the first week and then occasionally as part of shop cleanup. Tighten loose screws, replace cracked dowels, and move supports if accessories have started to rub or fall out. Leave a little unused space: it costs less than rebuilding the rack when a new jig arrives, and it makes the rack easier to use without turning it into a crowded wall of hooks.