What's inside
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Jig components are awkward to store: a setup may include a fence, stop blocks, spacers, knobs, bolts and a template, all needed together but too different in size for one small organizer. The right bin system keeps parts grouped, visible and protected without taking more bench space than the jigs themselves.
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Sort parts by jig, not just by size
Start by making one group for each jig or setup. Keep the pieces used together in the same bin, even if that means storing a few different sizes of hardware side by side. A bin full of interchangeable-looking spacers is less useful if you cannot tell which ones belong to the tenoning jig.
For each group, measure the largest component and allow room to lift it out without tipping the bin. A bin that is 1–2 inches longer and wider than the part is usually easier to use than a tight fit. Keep tall fences and rails in their own long bins or on a shelf; forcing them into a shallow drawer can warp a lightweight part or make the drawer difficult to close.
Choose a bin style that suits the parts
| Bin type | Works well for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Open-front parts bins | Frequently used knobs, bolts, washers and small blocks | Fast access, but dust settles on parts and loose items can spill if bumped |
| Drawer organizer with dividers | Small hardware sorted by size or jig | Covered storage, but dividers can shift and drawers limit part height |
| Lidded tote | A complete jig kit stored together on a shelf | Good dust protection and portability; small items need bags or inner trays |
| Stackable shelf bin | Medium-size blocks, spacers and accessories | Uses vertical space, but lower bins are inconvenient if the stack is too tall |
For small hardware used every week, open-front parts bins are usually the simplest choice. They make it easy to grab one knob or bolt without opening a lid. Put them on a wall or shelf away from the direct path of dust collection exhaust and sanding debris. If your shop gets dusty, choose bins with covers or keep the open bins inside a cabinet.
Match bin strength to the load
Thin, inexpensive bins are fine for light items such as shims, washers and plastic knobs. They become frustrating when loaded with steel hardware or repeatedly pulled off a shelf: the front lip can flex, the corners may crack, and a bin that bows can hang up against its neighbors. For heavier parts, look for a thick-walled bin with a reinforced front edge and a stated load rating. Do not assume a stackable shape means the bin is safe to stack when full.
Plastic is a practical default around woodworking tools because it will not rust and is easy to wipe clean. For heavy metal fixtures, a steel drawer cabinet or sturdy tote may hold up better, though it costs more and can be noisy. Avoid storing bare precision surfaces against gritty bin bottoms. Put a thin piece of foam or clean cloth beneath a fence face or machined stop block, and keep metal parts from rubbing against one another during transport.
Use organizers for the small pieces
A divided organizer works when a jig needs several sizes of fastener or spacer. Check that the dividers reach the lid: if they stop short, small washers can migrate between compartments when the case is carried on edge. Adjustable dividers are convenient, but they are not always secure enough for tiny parts. For those, use small labeled bags inside the compartment rather than trusting the divider alone.
Choose compartments based on what you actually store. A section about 1–2 inches wide suits many bolts, nuts and knobs; larger stops and blocks need wider sections or a separate bin. If you often bring a jig to a different bench, a lidded small-parts organizer with secure latches can keep the kit together. Test the latch before loading it: a loose lid is a real failure point, not a minor annoyance.
Label for retrieval, not appearance
Label the bin with the jig name and, where useful, the part type or size: “router circle jig—pivot pins” is more helpful than “hardware.” Put labels on the front face where they remain visible on a shelf. If parts are easy to confuse, add a brief inventory inside the lid or on a card in the bin. A photo of the assembled jig can also help when a setup has several nearly identical blocks.
Do not rely on marker directly on a dusty or textured plastic surface; it can smear or become hard to read. Adhesive labels or a card held in a label slot are easier to update. Leave room in the bin for replacement screws and one or two spare washers, but avoid turning it into a catch-all for unrelated shop hardware.
Place bins where they stay clean and safe
Keep frequently used components between waist and shoulder height so you are not reaching over a running machine or lifting a heavy tote from overhead. Store heavy bins low, and do not stack loose bins on a narrow shelf above a workbench. A stack that shifts can spill small parts onto the floor or land on the work surface.
For a compact shop, stackable plastic storage bins can make good use of a shelf, provided each bin remains easy to remove. If you have only a few jigs, a basic lidded tote and labeled bags may be cheaper and perfectly adequate. Upgrade to a drawer cabinet or dedicated bin rack when you have enough kits that parts are regularly misplaced, spilled or mixed between setups.