What's inside
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Push sticks and push blocks are safety equipment, not accessories to be stored wherever there is spare room. If the right tool is out of reach when a cut starts, you are more likely to continue without it, reach over the blade, or grab an unsuitable scrap. The best storage puts several options within one step of the table saw while keeping them clear of the fence, stock, controls, and dust path.
Choose the storage location before buying hardware
Stand at the table saw in your normal cutting position and mark the area you can reach without leaning across the table. This is the useful zone. A push-stick holder should usually be on the front or operator-facing side of the saw, not behind it. The front rail, mobile base, nearby cabinet, or the end of an attached outfeed table are common locations.
Keep the storage point roughly 12 to 24 inches from your usual hand position. Close enough matters, but do not mount anything where your elbow or a long board will hit it. A holder on the saw’s left side may be convenient for one shop and a nuisance in another, especially if the fence is routinely stored there.
Leave at least 2 inches of clearance around the saw’s emergency stop, power switch, and blade-height controls. Also check the full travel of the fence and the largest workpiece you cut. A holder that works for plywood may become a snag when you rip a 12-foot board.
Compare practical storage options
The cheapest solution is often a dedicated pocket or hook screwed to a cabinet side. The important features are positive retention, easy one-handed removal, and enough separation that the tools do not become a tangled pile.
| Storage method | Best use | Advantages | Problems to watch for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wall or cabinet hooks | Several push sticks and blocks | Cheap, visible, easy to expand | Requires a nearby wall or cabinet; tools can fall if hooks are shallow |
| Side-mounted pocket | One or two frequently used tools | Compact and fast to access | Can interfere with fence travel or catch long stock |
| Magnetic tool holder | Steel-shanked push sticks and small accessories | No drilling; easy to reposition | Magnets may not hold plastic tools or a heavy block securely |
| Dedicated saw-side rack | Mobile saws and compact shops | Keeps safety tools with the machine | Adds bulk and can make transport awkward |
For a fixed saw, a simple wooden rack is often the best value. Cut slots 3/8 to 1/2 inch wide for push sticks, with 1 to 2 inches between slots. Add a shallow shelf or pocket for push blocks. If you prefer a ready-made solution, browse table saw push stick holders, but check the mounting dimensions rather than assuming the holder will fit your saw.
Build a simple holder that does not create new hazards
A basic holder can be made from 3/4-inch plywood or solid scrap. A 4-by-8-inch back plate is large enough for most mounting jobs. Screw it to a cabinet side or the saw stand using two fasteners, not one. Round over the exposed corners and sand the edges so the holder does not snag clothing or skin.
For push sticks, use vertical slots or individual hooks. The slot should hold the tool upright without requiring force to remove it. For push blocks, use a tray with a front lip about 1/2 inch high. A taller lip makes access slower; a smaller lip may let a rubber-bottomed block slide out when the saw vibrates.
Mount the rack high enough that a dropped push stick cannot land on the saw table or near the blade. A practical starting point is 4 to 6 inches below the table surface for a side-mounted rack, then test it with your longest stock. Do not store anything above the blade where it could fall into the blade guard or onto the workpiece.
Use workshop tool holder hooks when you want a flexible arrangement. Screw-in hooks are fine for light plastic push sticks, while heavier blocks deserve a shelf or enclosed pocket. Adhesive-backed hooks are acceptable only on clean, smooth metal or laminate and only for lightweight tools; dust and vibration make them unreliable on unfinished plywood.
Store the tools you actually use
One narrow push stick is not enough for every cut. Keep at least one standard push stick, one narrow or offset stick for tight work, and one push block or high-friction handle for sheet goods and wide boards. A push stick with a heel is useful for narrow rips, but it should not be your only option because the heel may not engage safely on every workpiece.
Inspect the contact surfaces every few weeks. Replace a stick with a split heel, softened edge, loose handle, or deep saw kerf. A damaged tool can slip at the exact moment you apply pressure. Keep a spare simple push stick in the rack; a replacement made from scrap is cheaper than improvising with a screwdriver or a short piece of board.
Separate push tools from measuring tapes, pencils, and wrenches. Mixed storage encourages clutter, and clutter makes the safety tool harder to identify. Bright paint or a contrasting handle can help, but it is not a substitute for a dedicated location.
Keep dust and interference under control
Do not place the holder directly under the saw’s dust outlet or in the stream from an open cabinet. Fine dust coats rubber and textured handles, reducing grip. A storage rack on the front of the saw or on the clean side of a cabinet is usually better than one behind the blade.
Check the holder with the dust hose connected, the fence locked at its widest normal position, and an outfeed table installed. These are the conditions that reveal failure modes. Push sticks should not strike the hose, block the dust port, or become trapped between the fence and the holder.
For a mobile table saw, consider a compact table saw accessory storage bag only if the saw is moved frequently. A bag protects tools during transport, but it is slower to access and may end up on the floor. A small rack fixed to the stand is better when the saw stays set up.
Make access part of the safety routine
Before starting a cut, choose the push tool while the blade is stopped and place it on the saw’s operator side. If you need to walk away to find it, the storage location has failed, even if it is technically nearby. Return the tool after the cut so the next operation starts with a clear table and a known safety setup.
The best arrangement is not the most elaborate one. It is a visible, rigid holder that survives vibration, keeps tools away from the blade and fence, and lets you grab the correct push stick without changing your stance. A few dollars of plywood and two screws can meet those requirements better than a complicated accessory, provided you test the holder with your real workpieces.