What's inside
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A sliding dust hood closes the open side of a router station when you are not using it, then moves out of the way for bit changes and larger work. It is useful when a router table’s built-in port misses airborne chips, but it is not a substitute for dust collection at the fence. The design below uses a clear panel on simple tracks and connects to a shop vacuum or dust extractor.
Design and sizing
Measure the opening you want to cover, including the router bit’s full travel and room for your hands during setup. A hood roughly 18 inches wide by 12 inches high suits many benchtop stations, but size yours to the table. Leave about 1/8 inch of clearance on each side of the moving panel so sawdust does not bind it. The panel should overlap the opening by at least 1 inch at the top and sides when closed.
This hood is a partial enclosure: a clear sliding face, a shallow box around the router area, and a dust port in the box. Keep the hood removable or provide a separate access door. You need to reach the collet, make height adjustments, and clear jams without dismantling the station.
Materials and tools
- 1/4-inch clear polycarbonate for the sliding panel. It is tougher than acrylic and less likely to crack if struck by a workpiece.
- 3/4-inch plywood or straight hardwood for the box, side rails, and stops.
- Two straight guide strips or an inexpensive aluminum sliding-door track set sized for the panel.
- A 2-1/2-inch dust port to match a shop vacuum, or a 4-inch port if your collector and hose support that diameter.
- Screws, washers, weatherstrip or brush seal, and a dust-collection hose clamp.
Use a jigsaw or circular saw for the box, a drill for the port and mounting holes, and a square to keep the tracks parallel. A clear polycarbonate sheet costs more than acrylic, but the added impact resistance is worthwhile near a spinning cutter. For a hood that stays out of reach of stock and tools, acrylic can be a reasonable low-cost choice.
Build the box
Cut a back panel and two sides to form a shallow enclosure around the area below the table opening. A depth of 8 to 10 inches is usually enough to catch chips without making the router hard to reach. Make the bottom removable, or leave it open if the station already has a cabinet beneath it. Seal large gaps with caulk; small, deliberate gaps around moving parts are easier to manage than a crooked, leaky box.
Cut the dust-port hole in the back or side, away from the router’s motor vents and any adjustment mechanism. Mount the port with screws and a gasket, then connect the hose. A 2-1/2-inch hose is convenient for a shop vacuum and fits many compact stations. A 4-inch line moves more air with a suitable collector, but adapters and long, narrow hose runs can restrict it. Keep the hose run short and avoid sharp bends.
Fit the sliding panel
Attach the guide strips to the top and bottom edges of the opening, or install track according to its instructions. Test the panel off the machine first. It should slide with light hand pressure and stay in place without tipping forward. If you use wood guides, wax them lightly; avoid oily lubricants that collect dust.
Cut the polycarbonate with a fine-tooth blade and support it fully to reduce vibration. Drill screw holes slightly oversized, then use washers and do not overtighten: plastic expands and can crack around a tight fastener. Add end stops so the panel cannot slide out of its tracks. Fit a small brush seal or thin weatherstrip where the panel meets the box. A perfect seal is not necessary, and excessive friction makes the hood irritating to use.
Add a simple handle on the edge of the panel. Keep it outside the workpiece path, and check that it cannot catch a board or snag clothing. Label the fully open and closed positions if the hood is hard to see against the station.
Choose a collection setup
| Setup | Best fit | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Shop vacuum with 2-1/2-inch hose | Small router stations and occasional use | Easy to connect, but the hose can clog with heavy chip loads. |
| Dust collector with 4-inch hose | Frequent routing and a cabinet enclosure | Better suited to larger airflow, but takes more floor space and needs compatible ducting. |
| Open box with no port | Very occasional work where chips are easy to sweep up | Cheapest option, but captures little airborne dust. |
A hood works best alongside a fence-mounted port, because the cutter throws dust above the table as well as below it. If your fence has no port, a router-table dust port can improve capture at the source. Do not expect the sliding hood alone to contain fine dust; use both ports when practical and wear suitable respiratory protection during dusty work.
Test and adjust
With the router unplugged, move the panel through its full travel and verify access to the collet, switch, and height adjustment. Then reconnect the collector and run the router briefly without a workpiece. Check that the panel does not vibrate, the hose does not pull the box out of alignment, and airflow reaches the enclosure.
Make a shallow test cut in scrap, then inspect where chips collect. Dust escaping around the fence calls for better fence collection; dust escaping from the hood’s edges calls for a closer seal or better alignment. If chips pile up inside, enlarge the port only if the collector and hose can support the change. A bigger opening attached to a small vacuum does not guarantee more useful airflow.
Common failures are a panel that racks in its tracks, a port blocked by a hose bend, and an enclosure that prevents router adjustments. Keep the rails parallel, add a hose support if needed, and make at least one access panel removable. Before each session, check that the hood is secure, the tracks are clear, and the collector is on. Never adjust the router or reach into the enclosure while the cutter is running or the tool is plugged in.