What's inside
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A router table needs dust collection both below the bit and near the fence. A hood under the table catches chips that fall through the opening, but it won’t capture all the fine dust thrown across the tabletop. The build below adds a simple box beneath the table and connects it to a shop vacuum or dust collector. It suits a table with an open base; adjust the dimensions to fit yours.
Plan the hood around your collector
Before cutting material, check the space below the table, the router’s adjustment range, and the size of your collector’s hose. The hood must leave room to remove the router, change bits, and adjust the height without hitting its walls. A 4-inch dust-collection hose is common on larger collectors; shop vacuums usually use smaller hoses, often around 1-1/4 to 2-1/2 inches. Match the port to the hose you actually own rather than reducing a large duct to a tiny opening without need.
A box roughly 12 inches wide, 10 inches deep, and 8 inches tall is a workable starting point for many open-base tables, not a standard size. Leave at least 2 inches of clearance around moving router parts and more where the motor needs airflow. If the router runs hot or the hood traps its cooling exhaust, cut generous openings or use a more open-sided design. Fine dust control matters, but not at the cost of overheating the tool.
Materials and tools
Use 1/2-inch plywood for a sturdy hood, or 1/4-inch plywood for a lighter box supported by a solid frame. MDF is easy to cut and seal but heavier and vulnerable to moisture. You’ll also need screws, construction adhesive or wood glue, a hose port, and weatherstrip or foam tape to seal the removable access panel. A dust-collection flange sized to your hose makes a cleaner connection than taping a hose to a rough hole.
Gather a drill, saw, square, tape measure, and clamps. Wear eye protection and a suitable dust mask when cutting sheet goods. Keep the router unplugged while measuring around it or testing the hood’s fit.
Choose a hood style
| Design | Best for | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|
| Enclosed box with access panel | Open-base tables and stronger chip capture | Needs careful clearance and a way to reach the router |
| Three-sided shroud | Quick builds and tables with limited access | Leaks more air and may leave chips behind the router |
| Simple hose pointed under the bit | Occasional use or a low-cost trial | Easy to knock out of position; weak capture at the edges |
The enclosed box is the better choice if you rout often and can keep it clear of the router. A three-sided shroud is a sensible compromise when a full enclosure would block access. A hose alone can be fine for light work, but it is not a dependable substitute if chips routinely scatter across the cabinet.
Build the box
Measure the available space and mark the hood’s width, depth, and height on plywood. Cut a back, two sides, top, and bottom. Keep the front open or make a removable front panel; either way, make sure you can reach the router’s collet and height adjustment. If access requires removing the hood, use screws rather than permanent glue on that panel.
Dry-fit the pieces around the unplugged router. Turn the height adjustment through its full range and check for contact with the hood. Confirm that the motor’s air vents are not blocked. Then assemble the fixed sides with glue and screws. Drill pilot holes near plywood edges to reduce splitting, and avoid long screws that could protrude inside the box.
Cut a hole in the back or side for the hose flange, preferably near the lower half of the hood where chips collect. A 4-inch port is a good match for a 4-inch collector; a shop vacuum may need a smaller port or a reducer. Keep the duct run short and avoid sharp bends. Each restriction reduces airflow, and a powerful vacuum does not make a long, narrow, kinked hose equivalent to a larger duct. If you need adapters, dust-collection hose reducers and adapters are available in several sizes; check the measured inside and outside diameters before ordering.
Seal and mount it
Fit the hood to the underside of the table with screws, brackets, or cleats. It should not move when the hose is pulled, and it must not interfere with the router lift or table supports. Seal fixed joints with glue or a bead of flexible sealant. Add foam tape where a removable panel meets the box. Small gaps waste suction, though sealing every seam is less important than keeping the hose and port unobstructed.
Do not make the hood airtight. The collector needs replacement air to move dust toward the port. If the box has no natural gaps, add a few openings on the side opposite the port—about 1/2 to 1 inch across to start—and adjust after testing. Too many large openings reduce capture; too few can choke airflow. The right balance depends on the collector, hose, and size of the hood.
Test and adjust
Connect the hose, switch on the collector, and rout a scrap board with the router unplugged first to check clearances, then make a short test cut with the machine operating. Watch where chips escape. If dust accumulates below the bit, improve the lower opening or move the port. If airflow feels weak, check for a clogged filter, full bin, crushed hose, or overly small adapter before rebuilding the hood.
For most router tables, a shop-vac dust separator can keep chips out of the vacuum filter, but it adds hose connections and takes up space. It is worthwhile if the filter clogs often; for occasional routing, emptying the vacuum and cleaning its filter may be cheaper and simpler.
Keep the setup safe
Empty the collector before chips reach the hose inlet, and inspect the hood for loose screws or packed debris. Never reach into the box while the router is plugged in. Keep the router’s cooling vents clear, use the fence and guards appropriate to the cut, and wear hearing and eye protection. A hood improves cleanup; it does not replace safe routing technique or suitable respiratory protection when fine dust remains in the air.