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If you’re searching for a Black and Decker table saw in 2026, here’s the direct answer: Black+Decker no longer sells a current-generation table saw in North America — parent company Stanley Black & Decker reserves that category for DeWalt — so nearly every unit you’ll encounter is a discontinued model on the used market. That makes this less a “which one should I buy” question and more a three-step check: identify the model and type number, verify its real rip capacity and condition, and confirm which replacement parts still exist before handing over cash.
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The Black and Decker table saw models you’re most likely to find
Most used listings fall into a few recognizable families. Exact specs vary by “type” number — Black & Decker revised saws without changing the model name — so always match the model and type on the data plate (usually riveted to the motor housing or rear of the saw) before ordering parts.
| Model | Line / era | Blade | Motor | What to know |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| BT2500 | Benchtop, late 1990s–early 2000s | 10 in., 5/8 in. arbor | ~15 A class, direct drive | The most common used listing; check the front fence rail for bends and the stamped-steel top for flatness. |
| FS200SD | Firestorm, mid-2000s | 10 in. | ~15 A class | Often sold with a folding stand; orange-and-black trim. Stock miter gauge is loose in the slot on many units. |
| FS210LS | Firestorm, mid-2000s | 10 in. | ~15 A class | Adds a blade-alignment laser. Treat the laser as cosmetic — replacements are effectively unavailable. |
| Older bench and contractor saws | 1970s–1990s | 8–10 in. | Universal motor | Cast-iron tops often survived well; parts diagrams still exist under legacy numbers, but fences and guards rarely do. |
If the data plate is missing, you can narrow it down by blade size (10 in. vs. 8–9 in.), arbor diameter (nearly all are 5/8 in.), and whether it’s direct drive or belt drive, then compare against the exploded diagrams on the Black+Decker service network and online parts distributors.
Rip capacity and dimensions: what to check in person
Published specs for these saws are hard to find, so measure on the actual unit:
- True rip capacity: Unplug the saw, raise the blade fully, and measure from the fence face to a blade tooth at maximum right-side extension. Most Black & Decker benchtops land in the teens to low 20s of inches — enough for shelving and rips under 12 in., but short of the 24 in. needed to halve a 4×8 sheet lengthwise. Plan to break down plywood with a circular saw and straightedge first.
- Footprint and working clearance: Benchtop bodies run roughly 22–26 in. wide and 35–50 lb. The saw itself is compact, but you need about 3 ft. of clear infeed and 3 ft. of outfeed space — an 8 ft. unobstructed run if you ever feed full sheets.
- Table height: On a stand or bench, target 34–36 in. to the table surface; lower than that and outfeed support becomes awkward.
- Miter slot width: Measure before buying a miter gauge upgrade. Some of these saws use nonstandard slots rather than the common 3/4 × 3/8 in. size.
- Dado caution: Many B&D benchtops were never rated for stacked dado sets. If the arbor threads bottom out before a stack seats, don’t run it — that’s a real hazard, not a minor limitation.
Replacement parts: what’s findable and what’s not
Because Black+Decker, DeWalt, and Porter-Cable share the Stanley Black & Decker service network, wear parts are still orderable through service centers and parts distributors — keyed to your model and type number.
Usually still available:
- Carbon brushes (replace when worn below about 1/4 in.), power cords, and switches
- Arbor bearings and drive belts where fitted
- Handwheels, elevation/tilt hardware, some throat plates
Effectively gone:
- Original rip fences and fence rails — the single biggest reason to walk away from an incomplete saw
- Blade guard assemblies and splitters
- Stands, extension wings, and cast trunnion parts
Universal regardless of brand: any 10 in. blade with a 5/8 in. arbor fits, and a zero-clearance throat insert is a 30-minute shop project from MDF or phenolic — which also gives you a mounting point for an aftermarket splitter, since most of these saws shipped without riving knives.
Black and Decker band saws: same story, different consumables
Buyers hunting a Black and Decker band saw run into the identical situation — vintage benchtop units circulate used at similar prices, with tires and blades as the main consumables. If the manual is gone, estimate blade length with: 2 × (wheel center distance) + π × (wheel diameter), then round to the nearest stocked size. Benchtop saws in the 9 in. class commonly take blades in the 59–62 in. range, but measure — guessing wrong is the most common ordering mistake.
The honest math: used B&D vs. a new DeWalt
A realistic total for a used Black and Decker benchtop: $50–$120 for the saw, $25–$40 for a decent 40-tooth blade, $10–$25 for brushes or a switch, plus your time aligning it. Call it $100–$180 all-in — versus roughly $300–$400 for a new compact saw with a warranty, a rack-and-pinion fence, and a riving knife. The used saw wins on price only if it’s complete; a missing fence or guard erases the savings fast.
| Model | Blade | Max rip (right of blade) | Weight | Power | Typical street price |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| DeWalt DWE7485 | 8-1/4 in. | 24.5 in. | ~46 lb | 15 A corded | ~$300–$400 |
| DeWalt DCS7485 (FlexVolt) | 8-1/4 in. | ~24 in. | ~45–50 lb bare | 60V Max cordless | ~$350–$500 depending on battery bundle |
| DeWalt DWE7491RS | 10 in. | 32.5 in. | ~90 lb plus rolling stand | 15 A corded | ~$550–$700 |
Timing matters here. DeWalt table saw Black Friday deals are a reliable annual event — the DWE7485 and DWE7491RS typically see 15–30% off list from mid-November through December, with smaller promos around Father’s Day. If a used B&D is quoting $150+, waiting for a holiday promo on a DWE7485 is usually the better buy.
Decision guide by situation
| If you… | Best move |
|---|---|
| Found a complete B&D under ~$100 with a straight fence and guard | Buy it; budget $30–$60 for a blade and tune-up parts. |
| Want one saw for weekend plywood and trim work | New compact like the DWE7485 — warranty and modern safety hardware. |
| Rip 4×8 sheet goods regularly | DWE7491RS; its 32.5 in. capacity halves sheets with room to spare. |
| Work on sites without reliable power | DCS7485 cordless. |
| Enjoy restoring tools or are on a tight budget | A B&D benchtop is a reasonable, cheap project saw. |
First-week checklist if you buy a used one
- Record the model and type number, then pull the exploded parts diagram so you know exactly what’s missing before paying.
- Unplug the saw and spin the blade by hand. Side-to-side arbor play means bearings; a cracked trunnion means walk away — that casting is irreplaceable.
- Check blade-to-miter-slot alignment by measuring the same tooth at the front and back of the insert. Off by more than a few thousandths? Loosen the trunnion bolts and nudge it square — this is the biggest accuracy fix on old benchtops.
- Verify the fence locks parallel to the blade. A fence that drifts is the main failure mode of these saws and the hardest part to source.
- Inspect the cord, switch, and brushes; generic brushes sized to the holder cost $10–$20.
- Fit a fresh blade, clean pitch off the top, and apply paste wax — it cuts friction noticeably and slows rust on bare metal.
- Address kickback protection: most of these saws lack riving knives, so use the guard, make a splitter-style insert, stand beside the cut line rather than behind it, and use a push stick on rips under ~6 in.
FAQ
Are Black and Decker table saw parts still made?
Wear items — brushes, switches, cords, bearings, belts — remain available through the Stanley Black & Decker service network and parts distributors. Structural parts, fences, and guards are essentially discontinued, so only buy a complete saw.
Will DeWalt parts fit a Black and Decker saw?
No. Same parent company, different designs — only blades (5/8 in. arbor) and generic electrical parts cross over. What they share is the service network, not the hardware.
What’s a fair used price in 2026?
Complete benchtop units typically list at $50–$150 depending on condition, fence, and stand. Above ~$150, a discounted modern compact saw is almost always the better value.